Rayon fabric has been part of the textile industry for over a century and is appreciated for its smooth, silk-like texture. It is produced from plant-based cellulose, though the manufacturing process requires chemical treatment, placing it between natural and synthetic fabric types.

As fashion trends move toward eco-conscious choices, the role of rayon is being reconsidered. Its comfort and versatility are still valued, yet concerns about its chemical footprint mean brands now look more closely at how it is produced and sourced.

What is rayon fabric?

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber derived from purified cellulose (typically wood or bamboo pulp). Often called “artificial silk,” it can mimic the look and feel of other fabrics like cotton, linen, or silk. The cellulose from trees or plants is dissolved and then reformed into fine threads.

Several fabric types, including viscose, modal, Lyocell, and bamboo-based rayon, fall under the rayon category. Viscose is the oldest and most common form of rayon, while modal (from beech wood) and Lyocell (from eucalyptus, e.g., Tencel) are modern variants with improved performance.

Rayon is used in everything from luxurious draped gowns to everyday bedsheets (often labeled as rayon textile in composition tags).

History of rayon fabric

The history of Rayon began in the late 19th century. French scientist Hilaire de Chardonnet invented the first artificial silk in 1885 by developing a cellulose-based fiber. This breakthrough offered a cheaper alternative to silk and heralded a new era for the textile world.

Decades later, commercial production ramped up in the early 1900s, and by 1911, the U.S. was manufacturing rayon (then called “artificial silk”). In 1925, the U.S. The Federal Trade Commission formally named it “rayon,” and distinguished two types of regenerated cellulose fibers: rayon and acetate. “Rayon” was defined as those made from pure cellulose, while “acetate” referred to cellulose that had been chemically modified (cellulose acetate).

How rayon fabric is made

The process of producing rayon fabric starts with wood pulp, often sourced from bamboo, eucalyptus, or pine. This pulp is treated with sodium hydroxide to create alkali cellulose, which prepares the raw material for conversion into fibers. Next, the alkali cellulose is treated with carbon disulfide to create cellulose xanthate. Dissolving this in more sodium hydroxide produces a thick, viscous solution, the basis of the viscose process.

The solution is then forced through spinneret nozzles into a sulfuric acid bath. This step regenerates the cellulose into continuous filaments that resemble silk fibers.After washing and stretching, the fibers are cured to set their strength. They can then be cut, spun, and woven into a rayon textile ready for the next steps in the garment manufacturing process.

What is viscose fabric?

Viscose is the most common type of rayon, often called “viscose rayon.” The name comes from the viscous cellulose solution used to create the fiber.

This soft, drapey, and highly absorbent fabric is one of the most popular breathable fabrics. Its smooth, silk-like texture and fluidity make it a cost-effective alternative to silk for dresses, linings, and activewear. Made through a viscose process, it delivers comfort and elegance but requires gentle care.

clothes made from viscose fabric

Pros & cons of rayon and viscose fabric

Both rayon and viscose offer unique qualities that make them popular in fashion, but they also come with limitations worth noting.

Pros

  • Soft and silky texture: Rayon has a lightweight, smooth feel that is gentle on skin.
  • One of the most popular breathable fabrics: Its airy structure keeps wearers cool and comfortable.
  • Beautiful drape: Viscose flows elegantly. It is perfect for free-flowing garment styles like dresses and skirts.
  • Versatile imitation: It can mimic cotton, wool, or silk, fitting across many fabric types.
  • Moisture-wicking: Absorbs sweat and keeps the body dry. This makes it worthwhile in warm-weather clothing.
  • Affordable luxury: Delivers the sheen and softness of silk at a fraction of the cost.

Cons

  • Wrinkling: Standard viscose creases easily and may require careful handling.
  • Lower durability of rayon: Fibers weaken over time, especially when wet.
  • Heat sensitivity: Excessive heat during washing or ironing can cause shrinkage or stiffness.
  • Chemical reactivity: Exposure to bleach or sunlight can weaken fibers and fade colors.

What is the difference between rayon and viscose fabric?

Although the terms are often used interchangeably, there are distinctions. Rayon fabric refers to a family of regenerated cellulose fibers, including modal and Lyocell, while viscose is the original form made with the viscose process. The table below highlights the main differences of these two fabrics:

Aspect Rayon (Modal & Lyocell Variants) Viscose (Standard Rayon)
Manufacturing process Made from specific wood sources, such as beech (modal) or eucalyptus (lyocell). Often uses optimized or closed-loop systems with fewer emissions. Derived from general wood pulp or cotton linters using the traditional viscose process. Relies on open-loop methods.
Chemicals used Uses caustic soda, but newer methods recycle solvents. Lyocell avoids toxic carbon disulfide, making it safer for workers and the textile industry. Requires caustic soda, carbon disulfide, and sulfuric acid. These chemicals create pollution if not managed carefully.
Performance Can mimic cotton, silk, or wool. Stronger when wet, making it suitable for everyday garment use. Common in summer clothing and underwear. Drapes like silk or cotton. Works best for free-flowing clothing and curtains but weakens when wet, needing delicate care.
Durability Greater tensile strength. Modal resists stretching, and lyocell holds up well through washing. Longer-lasting with fewer wrinkles. Lower tensile strength. Breaks down faster over time. Prone to shrinking and pilling without blends or gentle handling.
Texture & Feel Very soft and breathable fabrics. Modal has a smooth touch, and lyocell feels silky yet cotton-like. Ultra-smooth with a glossy sheen. Luxurious drape but wrinkles easily and can lose structure if damp.
Sustainability Considered more eco-friendly. Lyocell, in particular, uses closed-loop processing and qualifies as part of sustainable fabrics sourcing. Less sustainable. The viscose process often releases harmful byproducts unless mills adopt modern filtration.

Are rayon and viscose eco-friendly?

Rayon is made from plants, but that doesn’t automatically mean it’s “green”. The traditional viscose rayon fabric production process uses numerous hazardous chemicals. For example, carbon disulfide, the solvent used to dissolve cellulose, is highly toxic. Factory workers exposed to carbon disulfide have suffered serious health effects, including nerve damage, elevated risk of heart disease, and stroke. Sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid are also used in large quantities, raising concerns about worker safety and pollution.

The environmental impact of viscose production goes far beyond worker health. Wastewater and airborne pollutants are common byproducts of the process. Added to that is deforestation, where the demand for wood pulp removes natural habitats and increases carbon emissions. These issues cast doubt on the eco-profile of rayon fabric.

Switching to sustainable materials

For many in the textile industry, the shift to sustainable fabrics is no longer optional. Brands now weigh more than price and speed to align with consumer expectations around responsible sourcing.

sustaianable clothing put inside a box

Use eco-friendly fabrics

One response is to pick alternatives with proven lower impacts. Organic cotton, for instance, is cultivated without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. This reduces water pollution and energy consumption. It also provides a cleaner raw material while supporting more resilient supply chains.

Another option is wool, valued for being renewable, biodegradable, and long-lasting. It balances durability with environmental stewardship and animal welfare standards when sourced responsibly.

The most direct rayon replacement is Lyocell (often sold as Tencel). Made in a closed-loop process, it recycles 99% of water and solvents to create a strong, breathable fiber without toxic byproducts.

Finding a certified sustainable fabric manufacturer

Sourcing from certified suppliers ensures that fabrics truly meet global sustainability standards, for example:

  • Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): Confirms high organic fiber content (up to 95%) and bans toxic bleaches, dyes, and finishes.
  • Global Recycle Standard (GRS): Verifies recycled content (≥50%) and enforces strict environmental and social compliance.
  • Recycled Claim Standard (RCS): Traces recycled input at any percentage, ensuring transparent handling across the supply chain.

With that in mind, garment factories are working to improve in order to meet these standards, protect the environment, and build clients’ trust. Kiara Garments factory from Capital World Group – a sustainable garment manufacturer in Vietnam, offers a vertically integrated path that covers everything from design input and rapid sampling to scalable production and global logistics, enabling brands to put those commitments into practice.

Our operations follow internationally recognized systems such as ISO 9001, Higg FEM, amfori BSCI, and SLCP, while also providing material choices like RCS, BCI, and FSC-ready fabrics. This approach gives brands faster timelines, predictable costs, and proven compliance with social and environmental expectations.